COMMENTARY

Almonds and Almond Oil

Cosmeceutical Critique

Leslie S. Baumann, MD

Disclosures

September 15, 2023

Almonds and almond oil are known to exhibit anti-inflammatory, antihepatotoxicity, and immunity-boosting activity.[1] The seed from the deciduous almond tree (Oleum amygdalae), which is native to Iran and parts of the Levant, almonds contain copious amounts of phenols and polyphenols, fatty acids, and vitamin E, all of which are known to exert antioxidant activity.[2,3,4,5] These seeds have been found to have a substantial impact on serum lipids.[4] Emollient and sclerosant characteristics have also been linked to almond oil, which has been found to ameliorate complexion and skin tone.[5] Significantly, in vitro and in vivo studies have shown that UVB-induced photoaging can be attenuated through the use of almond oil and almond skin extract.[2] Further, in traditional Chinese Medicine, Ayurveda, and ancient Greco-Persian medicine, almond oil was used to treat cutaneous conditions, including eczema and psoriasis.[1] The focus of this column is to provide an update on the use of almonds and almond oil for skincare since covering the topic in July 2014.

Antiphotoaging activity

Leslie S. Baumann, MD

In 2019, Foolad and Vaughn conducted a prospective, investigator-blind, randomized controlled trial to determine the effects of almond consumption on facial sebum production and wrinkles. Participants (28 postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II completed the study) consumed 20% of their daily energy intake in almonds or a calorie-matched snack over 16 weeks through the UC Davis Dermatology Clinic. Photographic analysis revealed that the almond group experienced significantly diminished wrinkle severity, compared with the control group. The investigators concluded that daily almond consumption has the potential to decrease wrinkle severity in postmenopausal women and that almonds may confer natural antiaging effects.[4]

In a similar investigation 2 years later, Rybak et al. reported on a prospective, randomized controlled study to ascertain the effects of almond consumption on photoaging in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I or II who obtained 20% of their daily energy consumption via almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 24 weeks. Results demonstrated significant effects conferred by almond consumption, with average wrinkle severity substantially diminished in the almond group at weeks 16 (by 15%) and 24 (by 16%), compared with baseline. In addition, facial pigment intensity was reduced by 20% in the almond group by week 16 and this was maintained through the end of the study. Further, sebum excretion was higher in the control group. The investigators concluded that the daily consumption of almonds may have the potential to enhance protection against photoaging, particularly in terms of facial wrinkles and pigment intensity, in postmenopausal women.[3]

Later in 2021, Li et al. conducted a study in 39 healthy Asian women (18-45 years old) with Fitzpatrick skin types II to IV to investigate the effects of almond consumption on UVB resistance. The researchers randomized participants to eat either 1.5 oz of almonds or 1.8 oz of pretzels daily for 12 weeks. Results showed that the minimal erythema dose was higher in the almond group as compared with the control group. No differences were observed in hydration, melanin, roughness, or sebum on facial skin. The authors concluded that daily oral almond intake may improve photoprotection by raising the minimal erythema dose.[2]

In a 2022 review on the cutaneous benefits of sweet almond, evening primrose, and jojoba oils, Blaak and Staib noted that all three have been used for hundreds if not thousands of years in traditional medicine to treat various conditions, including skin disorders. Further, they concluded that the longstanding uses of these oils has been borne out by contemporary data, which reveal cutaneous benefits for adult and young skin, particularly in bolstering stratum corneum integrity, recovery, and lipid ratio.[6]

Later that year, Sanju et al., reporting on the development and assessment of a broad-spectrum polyherbal sunscreen delivered through solid lipid nanoparticles, noted that almond oil was among the natural ingredients used because of its photoprotective characteristics. Overall, the sunscreen formulation, Safranal, was found to impart robust protection against UV radiation.[7]

Wound healing

In 2020, Borzou et al. conducted a single-blind randomized clinical trial to ascertain the impact of topical almond oil in preventing pressure injuries. Data collection occurred over 8 months in a hospital setting, with 108 patients randomly assigned to receive almond oil, placebo (liquid paraffin), or the control (standard of care). The researchers found that topically applied almond oil was linked to a lower incidence of pressure injuries, and they arose later in the study as compared with those injuries in the groups receiving paraffin or standard of care. Pressure injury incidence was 5.6% in the almond oil group, 13.9% in the placebo group, and 25.1% in the control group.[8]

That same year, Caglar et al. completed a randomized controlled trial in 90 preterm infants to assess the effects of sunflower seed oil and almond oil on the stratum corneum. Infants were randomly selected for treatment with either oil or control. A nurse researcher applied oils to the whole body except for the head and face four times daily for 5 days. Investigators determined that stratum corneum hydration was better in the oil groups as compared with control, with no difference found between sunflower seed and almond oils.[9]

Eczema, hand dermatitis, and striae

In 2018, Simon et al. performed a randomized, double-blind study to determine the short- and long-term effects of two emollients on pruritus and skin restoration in xerotic eczema. The emollients contained lactic acid and refined almond oil, with one also including polidocanol. Both emollients were effective in reducing the severity of itching, with skin moisture and lipid content found to have risen after the initial administration and yielding steady improvement over 2 weeks.[10]

Earlier that year, Zeichner et al. found that the use of an OTC sweet almond oil, rich in fatty acids and a standard-bearing treatment for eczema and psoriasis for centuries, was effective in treating hand dermatitis. Specifically, the moisturizer, which contained 7% sweet almond oil and 2% colloidal oatmeal, was identified as safe and effective in resolving moderate to severe hand dermatitis.[11]

Some studies have also shown almond oil to be effective against striae gravidarum. Hajhashemi et al. conducted a double-blind clinical trial in 160 nulliparous women to compare the effects of aloe vera gel and sweet almond oil on striae gravidarum in 2018. Volunteers were randomly assigned to one of three case groups (Aloe vera, sweet almond oil, or base cream) who received topical treatment on the abdomen, or the fourth group, which received no treatment. Results showed that both treatment creams were effective in decreasing erythema and the pruritus associated with striae as well as in preventing their expansion.[12] Previously, Tashan and Kafkasli showed in a nonrandomized study that massage with bitter almond oil may diminish the visibility of present striae gravidarum and prevent the emergence of new striae.[13]

Conclusion

Almonds and almond oil have been used as food and in traditional medical practices dating back several centuries. In the last decade, intriguing results have emerged regarding the effects of almond consumption or topical almond oil administration on skin health. While much more research is necessary, the recent data seem to support the traditional uses of this tree seed for dermatologic purposes.

Dr. Baumann is a private practice dermatologist, researcher, author, and entrepreneur in Miami. She founded the division of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami in 1997. The third edition of her bestselling textbook, “Cosmetic Dermatology” (New York: McGraw Hill), was published in 2022. Dr. Baumann has received funding for advisory boards and/or clinical research trials from Allergan, Galderma, Johnson & Johnson, and Burt’s Bees. She is the CEO of Skin Type Solutions, a SaaS company used to generate skin care routines in office and as an e-commerce solution. Write to her at dermnews@mdedge.com.

This article originally appeared on MDedge.com, part of the Medscape Professional Network.

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